Custom Telescoping Boxes
A telescoping box has no hinge, no glue on the closure and no mechanism. The lid stays on because of air and friction, which sounds trivial until you realize the entire quality of the pack rests on a tolerance of about a millimeter.
- Builds
- Full telescope, partial telescope, shoulder-neck
- Board
- 1.5–3 mm grayboard, wrapped
- Wraps
- Printed litho paper, uncoated specialist stock, textured papers
Order online
Order telescoping boxes
Starting from $7.00 per unit
Printed to your artwork or plain, sold in runs of 100 up to 5,000 units per product online. Freight to the US, UK, Canada and Australia is inside the price.
How an online order runs
- Add the units you needThen check out with your delivery address. Add other products to the same order on the way.
- A digital proof comes backLaid on the dieline, before anything prints. Change it as often as you need.
- Pay once you approve itPay by PayPal invoice or bank transfer after you approve your digital proof, or cash on delivery in the US and Canada.
- We make it and ship it deliveredYour delivery date is confirmed with the proof, against the spec and your fill date. Freight and customs are handled on the way to you.
Another size, board or finish, or more than 5,000 units? Send the spec for a price instead. Freight by market and our terms cover delivery and remakes.
Get a price for Telescoping Boxes
Send the size and quantity — we reply the same working day with a price, a dieline and a date. Artwork optional at this stage.
- Free dielineThe flat drawing comes with the quote, before you commit.
- Proof before pressNothing is printed until you have seen it laid on the dieline.
- Die kept for reordersTooling is paid once. Every reorder skips straight to press.
- Quoted in four marketsUS, UK, Canada and Australia, in the delivery currency.
The gap between lid and base is the whole product
Too tight and the lid will not seat, or it seats and then cannot be lifted without pulling the base up with it. Too loose and it rattles, slides off in transit, and reads as cheap the moment it is picked up.
The target is a lid that descends slowly under its own weight and stops with a soft sigh of escaping air. That effect is the reason luxury brands use this build, and it is engineered rather than lucky: the wrap thickness, the board thickness and the corner build all eat into the same tolerance.
If you have a sample you like, send it. Copying a known-good gap is far more reliable than describing one.
Three depths of lid, three different products
A full telescope is the strongest and hides the base entirely, so the base can be plain grayboard. A partial telescope gives you a second printable surface for free. A shoulder-neck is the most expensive of the three and the only one that closes flush, which is why spirits and watches use it.
| Full telescope | Lid covers the base entirely — looks like one solid block |
|---|---|
| Partial telescope | Lid covers part of the base, showing a printed band below |
| Shoulder-neck | A collar sits inside; the lid meets it in a flush line |
Air needs somewhere to go
A close-fitting lid on a sealed base is a piston. On a small box that is a pleasant slow close; on a large or deep box it becomes genuinely difficult to fit the lid, and the customer will feel like something is wrong.
The fixes are all quiet ones — a slightly looser tolerance, a ribbon pull that breaks the seal, or an insert that does not reach the walls. We size the tolerance to the box volume rather than using one number for every job.
Where telescoping loses to a magnetic lid
It wins on cost, on structural strength and on how flat it packs when the lid is nested. For a fuller comparison of the rigid builds, our rigid box construction notes set the options side by side.
- Anything opened daily: the lid has to be put down somewhere, every time.
- Anything opened one-handed, which a two-piece box does not allow.
- Anything shipped loose in the post, where a lid can work its way off.
- Any unboxing filmed for social, where a hinged reveal simply looks better.
Printing across two separate pieces
The lid and the base are wrapped separately, from separate sheets, and any artwork that has to line up across the join will not line up perfectly. A continuous pattern across the gap is the one thing this build cannot do well.
Design with the join, not against it: a band, a rule or a change of color at the lid edge turns an unavoidable seam into a deliberate line.
Telescoping Boxes — specification
The rows that are specific to this build first, then what applies to every job we run. Anything not listed is a question, not a limit — send the brief.
This build
- Builds
- Full telescope, partial telescope, shoulder-neck
- Board
- 1.5–3 mm grayboard, wrapped
- Wraps
- Printed litho paper, uncoated specialist stock, textured papers
- Tolerance
- Set per job against volume and wrap thickness
- Inserts
- Card, foam or pulp, sized to leave an air path
- Minimum
- 100 boxes
On every job
- Print process
- The wrap is printed offset as a flat sheet and applied to the board, so the print quality is that of a sheet rather than a box.
- Color
- CMYK on the wrap with spot colors for a brand match. A textured or soft-touch wrap mutes a solid color slightly.
- Tolerance
- Board cut plus or minus 0.5 mm. Lid fit is set on a sample and held on the run, with an allowance for the delivery climate.
- Tooling
- No cutting die on the box itself. The tooling is the wrap print and any foil or emboss die, made once and kept.
- Food contact
- A food-grade liner or an inner tray where a rigid box holds unwrapped food.
- Sustainability
- Board and paper recycle together. Magnets, ribbon and foam come out first, and the spec says which the box has.
- Artwork
- Vector PDF or AI, 3 mm bleed, 4 mm safe area, fonts outlined. We check every file and send a proof before press.
- Dieline
- Supplied free with the quote, before you commit. Yours whether or not you order.
- Sample
- A plain unprinted sample at the finished size on request, for fit and construction.
- Reorders
- Skip the tooling and go straight to press at a lower unit price.
- Lead time
- Quoted with the price against your fill date rather than promised before we have seen the spec.
- Markets
- United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia — priced in the delivery currency, freight included.
Boards and films we build telescoping boxes on
A rigid box is two materials: the grayboard that holds the shape and the paper wrapped around it. The board decides the feel; the wrap decides everything a customer sees and touches.
Grayboard 1.2–1.5 mm
The light rigid box: jewelry, small cases, card boxes. Heavy in the hand for its size without thick walls on a small cavity.
1.2–1.5 mmGrayboard 2–3 mm
The full rigid box. Resists crushing, bends poorly — thickness is chosen from box size so a wide lid does not sag.
2–3 mmArt paper wrap
Printed coated paper, matte or gloss laminated. Full color, photographs, any design. The most flexible wrap and the least tactile.
128–157gsmSoft-touch wrap
A velvet-feel laminate over printed paper. Reads expensive, shows fingerprints on white, and scuffs at the corners before anywhere else.
128–157gsm laminatedLinen and textured wrap
Texture woven into the paper, so it cannot scuff off. Takes foil and deboss beautifully; breaks up a solid print.
120–140gsmLeather-grain and specialty
Embossed grain papers, metallics and colored stocks. One color and a foil mark, not a photograph.
120–160gsmFlocked and velvet liners
A short-fiber or woven pile for the interior and the insert. Holds a product without marking it and sets the color the piece is seen against.
Applied to board or foamMagnets and hardware
Neodymium magnets under the wrap, ribbon pulls, and hinges built from the wrap itself. Each is a line on the quote.
Per closureNot sure which? Say what goes in it and where it is sold — the material follows from that. Our notes on recycled, recyclable and compostable cover which claims each stock can honestly carry.
- 01
Send what you have
A dimension, a photograph beside a ruler, or the product itself. No technical drawing needed — that part is ours.
- 02
We quote and draw
A price, a dieline and a date come back together. If a different build would suit the product better, that is in the reply too.
- 03
Approve the dieline
The flat drawing is yours to check: which panel is the front, where the folds fall, how deep the cavity really is.
- 04
Artwork on the dieline
You place your design on the flat we sent, or we place it for you, and you see a proof before anything goes to press.
- 05
A sample if you want one
A plain unprinted sample at the finished size shows fit and construction — the things a drawing cannot.
- 06
Cut, printed, shipped
The die is cut once and kept, so every reorder skips the tooling and goes straight to press at a lower unit price.
Format
Vector PDF or AI where possible. Raster artwork at 300dpi at final size, in CMYK.
Bleed
3 mm past every trim line, so a fraction of drift on the cutter never leaves a white edge.
Safe area
Keep type and anything important 4 mm inside the cut and away from every fold.
Color
Convert to CMYK before sending. Uncoated stock prints lighter; a spot color is the only exact match.
Fonts
Outline them or supply the files. A missing font substitutes silently and the proof will not match.
Barcodes
On a light, matte, unvarnished patch with the quiet zone clear — a code on gloss fails the scanner.
Not set up that way? Send it anyway — fixing a file is a short conversation, and we check every one before press. Our guide to preparing print files covers each point.
On a rigid box the wrap is the finish, and the corners are where it is judged.
Soft-touch wrap
Velvet in the hand. The category default, and it scuffs at the corners first.
Linen and laid
Texture woven into the paper; hides marks and cannot rub off.
Hot foil
Stamped into the wrap. Small block, cheap die, large effect on a lid.
Blind deboss
Shape with no ink. On a textured wrap it is the quietest premium mark there is.
Spot UV on matte
A gloss shape on a matte field; a pattern that only shows at an angle.
Colored liner
A wrap on the inside face, seen for a second as the lid lifts. The cheapest thing that changes an opening.
Leather-grain
Embossed grain paper. One color and a foil mark, never a photograph.
Ribbon and hardware
A pull under the product, magnets under the wrap, a hinge built from the paper.
Not sure which suits the shelf it sells from? Say where the product is sold and we suggest one — our notes on specialty finishes show them on real boxes.
Sizing a rigid box, where the wrap is part of the wall: telescoping boxes
A rigid box is built up rather than folded, so the internal size is set first and the board and wrap are added outside it. The lid is then made to fit the base, and that fit is the thing people judge.
- Internal dimensions
- The product plus its insert, at the widest point. Everything else is built outward from this number.
- Wall build-up
- Each wall is the grayboard plus the wrap on both faces — roughly 2.5 mm on a 2 mm board. A small box gains noticeably in outside size.
- Lid clearance
- A few tenths of a millimeter. Set on a plain sample: a slow, air-cushioned lift, not a lid that drops off or has to be prised.
- Insert depth
- The tallest item plus 2 mm. On a two-layer box, this sets the total height and the ribbon lift.
- Humidity
- Board takes up moisture and a lid set snug in a dry factory can bind in a damp shop. We allow for the delivery market.
- Tolerance
- Plus or minus 0.5 mm on a rigid box, tighter than folding board because nothing springs back.
Not sure your numbers are right? Send the product dimensions rather than the box dimensions and we work the box out — the full method is in our guide to measuring for a box.
Interactive · five steps · no sign-up
Build your Telescoping Boxes in 3D
Pick a shape, type a size, choose a board and a finish. The preview on the left redraws as you go, and the spec lands with us exactly as you set it.
Frequently asked questions
Got a question about telescoping boxes? The answers below cover what we get asked most. If yours is not here, send it with a brief, message us on WhatsApp, or call +1 503-461-4788 — we reply the same working day.
What is the minimum order for telescoping boxes?
100 boxes. Tooling for a lid-and-base build is modest; the cost sits in wrapping two pieces and holding the gap between them to about a millimeter.
Why is my lid hard to lift off?
Usually a tolerance set too tight for the box volume, plus humidity. It is a specification issue and fixable on the next run.
Can I print artwork across the lid and base?
Not accurately. They are wrapped from separate sheets, so a pattern crossing the join will not line up. Design with the join instead.
Do telescoping boxes ship flat?
No — rigid boxes ship made up with the lid nested. That is a real freight cost and worth factoring in early.
Full or partial telescope?
Full hides the base entirely, so the base can be plain. Partial shows a printed band below the lid and gives you a second surface.
Is a ribbon pull worth adding?
On a deep box, yes, and it is functional — it breaks the air seal as well as lifting the lid.
What is a shoulder-neck telescoping box?
A collar sits inside the base and the lid meets it in a flush line. It is the most expensive of the three builds and the only one that closes flush, which is why spirits and watches use it.
Can the base be unprinted?
On a full telescope, yes, and it saves real money because the base is never seen. On a partial telescope the exposed band has to be printed.
When is a magnetic lid a better choice than a telescoping box?
For anything opened daily or one-handed, shipped loose in the post, or filmed for social unboxing. A telescoping box wins on cost and structural strength.
Can you copy the fit of a sample box I already like?
Yes, and it is the most reliable route. Send the box — copying a known-good gap between lid and base works far better than describing one.
Same range
