Custom Playing Card Boxes
A tuck box is the tightest tolerance we work to. The deck is a solid block that has to slide in and out repeatedly without abrading its own edges, in a box small enough that a millimeter is a visible error.
- Build
- Tuck box with thumb notch, slit lock, or full seal
- Board
- 18–20pt; heavier board takes internal space at this size
- Sizing
- Built to your actual deck and stock, not to a nominal card count
Order online
Order playing card boxes
Starting from $1.20 per unit
Printed to your artwork or plain, sold in runs of 100 up to 5,000 units per product online. Freight to the US, UK, Canada and Australia is inside the price.
How an online order runs
- Add the units you needThen check out with your delivery address. Add other products to the same order on the way.
- A digital proof comes backLaid on the dieline, before anything prints. Change it as often as you need.
- Pay once you approve itPay by PayPal invoice or bank transfer after you approve your digital proof, or cash on delivery in the US and Canada.
- We make it and ship it deliveredYour delivery date is confirmed with the proof, against the spec and your fill date. Freight and customs are handled on the way to you.
Another size, board or finish, or more than 5,000 units? Send the spec for a price instead. Freight by market and our terms cover delivery and remakes.
Get a price for Playing Card Boxes
Send the size and quantity — we reply the same working day with a price, a dieline and a date. Artwork optional at this stage.
- Free dielineThe flat drawing comes with the quote, before you commit.
- Proof before pressNothing is printed until you have seen it laid on the dieline.
- Die kept for reordersTooling is paid once. Every reorder skips straight to press.
- Quoted in four marketsUS, UK, Canada and Australia, in the delivery currency.
Card stock decides the box, not the card count
A 52-card deck is not a fixed thickness. Linen-finish stock is noticeably thicker than a thin smooth stock, and a plastic-coated deck thicker again. Two decks with identical counts can differ by several millimeters across the block.
Send us the actual deck, or the exact stock and count. Building to a nominal figure is the single most common reason a tuck box does not fit.
If you plan to add jokers, rules cards or promotional cards later, say so now. They go in the same box.
How a deck damages its own box
None of this matters for a display box that is opened once. All of it matters for a deck that is used weekly, which is what most playing cards are.
- The corners of the cards abrade the inside of the box every time the deck is drawn out.
- A tight box scuffs the card edges instead, which is worse.
- The tuck flap wears at the fold and eventually tears; a slit lock delays it considerably.
- The bottom of the box is pushed out by the deck being pressed in from the top.
Getting the deck out again
A thumb notch is a small cut that changes the whole experience of using the box. Leaving it out for a cleaner front face is a decision worth making consciously rather than by default.
| Thumb notch | A half-circle cut in one face; the standard and the cheapest |
|---|---|
| Full seal with a tear tab | Retail tamper evidence; destroyed on first opening |
| Tuck flap only | Cleanest look, hardest to open, hardest on the flap |
| Pull ribbon | Uncommon and genuinely pleasant on a premium deck |
Finishes that survive being handled every week
Foil and emboss are near-universal on premium decks because they signal quality at a small size. Both also sit on a surface that will be gripped and pocketed repeatedly, and foil on a high-wear corner wears through.
Keep foil away from the edges and corners, and use emboss or deboss where the box is held. The trade-offs across the finishes are set out in our specialty finish notes.
Board weight, and the limit at this size
Heavier board makes a stronger box and a thicker wall, and at this size the wall thickness is part of the internal dimension. Going from 18pt to 24pt on all four walls takes real space away from the deck.
The usual working range is 18–20pt: enough to hold its shape in a pocket, thin enough that the box is not noticeably larger than the cards inside it.
Playing Card Boxes — specification
The rows that are specific to this build first, then what applies to every job we run. Anything not listed is a question, not a limit — send the brief.
This build
- Build
- Tuck box with thumb notch, slit lock, or full seal
- Board
- 18–20pt; heavier board takes internal space at this size
- Sizing
- Built to your actual deck and stock, not to a nominal card count
- Finishes
- Foil, emboss, deboss, spot UV; foil kept off wear corners
- Seals
- Tear tabs and printed seals for retail tamper evidence
- Minimum
- 100 boxes
On every job
- Print process
- The wrap is printed offset as a flat sheet and applied to the board, so the print quality is that of a sheet rather than a box.
- Color
- CMYK on the wrap with spot colors for a brand match. A textured or soft-touch wrap mutes a solid color slightly.
- Tolerance
- Board cut plus or minus 0.5 mm. Lid fit is set on a sample and held on the run, with an allowance for the delivery climate.
- Tooling
- No cutting die on the box itself. The tooling is the wrap print and any foil or emboss die, made once and kept.
- Food contact
- A food-grade liner or an inner tray where a rigid box holds unwrapped food.
- Sustainability
- Board and paper recycle together. Magnets, ribbon and foam come out first, and the spec says which the box has.
- Artwork
- Vector PDF or AI, 3 mm bleed, 4 mm safe area, fonts outlined. We check every file and send a proof before press.
- Dieline
- Supplied free with the quote, before you commit. Yours whether or not you order.
- Sample
- A plain unprinted sample at the finished size on request, for fit and construction.
- Reorders
- Skip the tooling and go straight to press at a lower unit price.
- Lead time
- Quoted with the price against your fill date rather than promised before we have seen the spec.
- Markets
- United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia — priced in the delivery currency, freight included.
Boards and films we build playing card boxes on
A rigid box is two materials: the grayboard that holds the shape and the paper wrapped around it. The board decides the feel; the wrap decides everything a customer sees and touches.
Grayboard 1.2–1.5 mm
The light rigid box: jewelry, small cases, card boxes. Heavy in the hand for its size without thick walls on a small cavity.
1.2–1.5 mmGrayboard 2–3 mm
The full rigid box. Resists crushing, bends poorly — thickness is chosen from box size so a wide lid does not sag.
2–3 mmArt paper wrap
Printed coated paper, matte or gloss laminated. Full color, photographs, any design. The most flexible wrap and the least tactile.
128–157gsmSoft-touch wrap
A velvet-feel laminate over printed paper. Reads expensive, shows fingerprints on white, and scuffs at the corners before anywhere else.
128–157gsm laminatedLinen and textured wrap
Texture woven into the paper, so it cannot scuff off. Takes foil and deboss beautifully; breaks up a solid print.
120–140gsmLeather-grain and specialty
Embossed grain papers, metallics and colored stocks. One color and a foil mark, not a photograph.
120–160gsmFlocked and velvet liners
A short-fiber or woven pile for the interior and the insert. Holds a product without marking it and sets the color the piece is seen against.
Applied to board or foamMagnets and hardware
Neodymium magnets under the wrap, ribbon pulls, and hinges built from the wrap itself. Each is a line on the quote.
Per closureNot sure which? Say what goes in it and where it is sold — the material follows from that. Our notes on recycled, recyclable and compostable cover which claims each stock can honestly carry.
- 01
Send what you have
A dimension, a photograph beside a ruler, or the product itself. No technical drawing needed — that part is ours.
- 02
We quote and draw
A price, a dieline and a date come back together. If a different build would suit the product better, that is in the reply too.
- 03
Approve the dieline
The flat drawing is yours to check: which panel is the front, where the folds fall, how deep the cavity really is.
- 04
Artwork on the dieline
You place your design on the flat we sent, or we place it for you, and you see a proof before anything goes to press.
- 05
A sample if you want one
A plain unprinted sample at the finished size shows fit and construction — the things a drawing cannot.
- 06
Cut, printed, shipped
The die is cut once and kept, so every reorder skips the tooling and goes straight to press at a lower unit price.
Format
Vector PDF or AI where possible. Raster artwork at 300dpi at final size, in CMYK.
Bleed
3 mm past every trim line, so a fraction of drift on the cutter never leaves a white edge.
Safe area
Keep type and anything important 4 mm inside the cut and away from every fold.
Color
Convert to CMYK before sending. Uncoated stock prints lighter; a spot color is the only exact match.
Fonts
Outline them or supply the files. A missing font substitutes silently and the proof will not match.
Barcodes
On a light, matte, unvarnished patch with the quiet zone clear — a code on gloss fails the scanner.
Not set up that way? Send it anyway — fixing a file is a short conversation, and we check every one before press. Our guide to preparing print files covers each point.
On a rigid box the wrap is the finish, and the corners are where it is judged.
Soft-touch wrap
Velvet in the hand. The category default, and it scuffs at the corners first.
Linen and laid
Texture woven into the paper; hides marks and cannot rub off.
Hot foil
Stamped into the wrap. Small block, cheap die, large effect on a lid.
Blind deboss
Shape with no ink. On a textured wrap it is the quietest premium mark there is.
Spot UV on matte
A gloss shape on a matte field; a pattern that only shows at an angle.
Colored liner
A wrap on the inside face, seen for a second as the lid lifts. The cheapest thing that changes an opening.
Leather-grain
Embossed grain paper. One color and a foil mark, never a photograph.
Ribbon and hardware
A pull under the product, magnets under the wrap, a hinge built from the paper.
Not sure which suits the shelf it sells from? Say where the product is sold and we suggest one — our notes on specialty finishes show them on real boxes.
Sizing a rigid box, where the wrap is part of the wall: playing card boxes
A rigid box is built up rather than folded, so the internal size is set first and the board and wrap are added outside it. The lid is then made to fit the base, and that fit is the thing people judge.
- Internal dimensions
- The product plus its insert, at the widest point. Everything else is built outward from this number.
- Wall build-up
- Each wall is the grayboard plus the wrap on both faces — roughly 2.5 mm on a 2 mm board. A small box gains noticeably in outside size.
- Lid clearance
- A few tenths of a millimeter. Set on a plain sample: a slow, air-cushioned lift, not a lid that drops off or has to be prised.
- Insert depth
- The tallest item plus 2 mm. On a two-layer box, this sets the total height and the ribbon lift.
- Humidity
- Board takes up moisture and a lid set snug in a dry factory can bind in a damp shop. We allow for the delivery market.
- Tolerance
- Plus or minus 0.5 mm on a rigid box, tighter than folding board because nothing springs back.
Not sure your numbers are right? Send the product dimensions rather than the box dimensions and we work the box out — the full method is in our guide to measuring for a box.
Interactive · five steps · no sign-up
Build your Playing Card Boxes in 3D
Pick a shape, type a size, choose a board and a finish. The preview on the left redraws as you go, and the spec lands with us exactly as you set it.
Frequently asked questions
Got a question about playing card boxes? The answers below cover what we get asked most. If yours is not here, send it with a brief, message us on WhatsApp, or call +1 503-461-4788 — we reply the same working day.
What size box for 52 cards?
It depends on the stock. Linen-finish and plastic-coated decks are much thicker than thin smooth stock — send the deck.
Why are the edges of my playing cards getting scuffed in the tuck box?
The box is too tight for the deck. A correct fit lets the deck slide out under gravity with a small shake, without the card edges dragging against the board.
Should I include a thumb notch?
Almost always — it costs nothing on the die and changes how the box feels to use every time.
Will foil wear off?
On corners and edges, eventually. Keep foil off the gripped areas and use emboss there instead.
Can jokers and rules cards go in the same box?
Yes, if you tell us now — each extra card is a fraction of a millimeter that has to be accounted for.
Full seal or thumb notch for retail?
A full seal with a tear tab gives tamper evidence for shelf sale; a thumb notch alone suits direct sale.
What board weight is used for playing card boxes?
18–20pt. Heavier board makes a thicker wall, and at this size the wall takes internal space away from the deck.
Why does the tuck flap on my card box tear?
It wears at the fold from repeated opening. A slit lock cut into the flap delays that considerably.
Is a pull ribbon an option on a playing card box?
Yes. It is uncommon and genuinely pleasant on a premium deck, as an alternative to a thumb notch or a tuck flap alone.
Why is the bottom of my card box pushing out?
The deck is pressed in from the top each time it is put away, and that force lands on the base. It is one of the wear points on a deck used weekly.
Same range
